Two very good memoirs have been published by chefs I admire and whose food I have eaten many times with great satisfaction, though the experiences are wildly different. Gabrielle Hamilton, chef of Prune has published Blood, Bones and Butter, which I reviewed for The Wall Street Journal. It was preceded by a much talked about, high-six-figure advance, which had to be returned when Hamilton failed to deliver, after which the book was repurchased and published last month. It's a fabulous read by a very odd creature who has a visceral love of the homey food she serves at her restaurant. Frankly, it's exactly the kind of food I love most, personally, braises and bone marrow and offal. It's the kind of food ...
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